Sunday, January 28, 2007

São Paulo, Brazil

I just spent 12 nights in São Paulo, the largest city in the Southern Hemisphere.

My primary purpose in going to São Paulo was to have two interviews required for the MBA program to which I am applying. As an aside, it’s really a new thing for me to publicly talk about something like this. I hope to be admitted to the MBA program at HEC, about 15 miles southeast of Paris, to begin this September. But it’s a very selective admission process, and ordinarily I would never talk about the fact that I was even applying for fear of jinxing my chances of getting in. But I’m throwing caution to the wind in so many ways with this career change, with this South American journey, and with this blog, so I figure I should just run with it. ;-)

Anyway, I submitted the final part of my application for the HEC MBA program from Bogota, partly in an effort to have any potential interview coincide with my arrival in São Paulo. I knew that interviews were required as part of the admission process, and that São Paulo was one of only a couple of cities in South America where it was possible for me to have these interviews. I also knew that if my application were to be selected for interviews, they would probably notify me accordingly about 4 weeks after my application was complete. In reality, they notified me only about 2 weeks after completion of my application that I had been selected for interviews. This was why I wound up skipping Uruguay completely and rushing to São Paulo earlier than planned, so that I could hopefully have the interviews and get a final decision from HEC in this admission cycle.

The interviews required a fair bit of preparation, however. I had no appropriate clothing. And I needed to prepare a Powerpoint presentation to present at each interview. (This also meant I needed to learn how to use Powerpoint, since I had never created a presentation with the software before.) I decided it would be best to situate myself in a rather decent business-type hotel in a nice area of town, ensuring that I would have wi-fi in my room, etc. (Since São Paulo is easily the most expensive city I’ve visited thus far on this trip, this also meant I was really blowing my budget out of the water.) I managed to get a 50% discount off the rack rate at the Golden Tulip Park Plaza in the rather tony Jardim Paulista district, and made that my home for nearly two weeks.

I spent the first few days shopping for an interview outfit (suit, shirt, tie, shoes, belt, etc.), scheduling and preparing for the interviews, and strolling around the city. I think I averaged about 15 miles a day of walking the first few days. São Paulo not only has a population of over 11 million, but covers nearly 600 square miles. That’s huge. I tried to cover as much as I could, but the 90-degree heat, powerful sun, and hilly streets made it quite difficult.

Here I am sitting under the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (“MASP”) with the northern part of the city behind me.

Overall, other than with respect to scale, I found the city to be much less intimidating than I thought it would be. It seemed safer, cleaner and more relaxed than I expected. The biggest problem I faced was the language issue. Frankly, I had no appreciation for just how much Spanish I had learned during my two months in Venezuela, Colombia and Ecuador, until I arrived in Brazil and was completely paralyzed because I spoke no Portuguese. And, unlike in Rio de Janeiro where I have been twice before, hardly any Paulistanos speak English. I soon realized that if I spoke Spanish then generally folks would understand most of what I was saying, but I still couldn’t understand a word of what they said back to me. I guess I better buckle down and learn some basic Portuguese if I’m going to be in the country for another few weeks…

One of the first sightseeing-type things I did in São Paulo was check out an exhibit of work by nineteenth century Brazilian photographer Marc Ferrez. It was actually incredible – the most amazing photography exhibit I have ever seen (not that I’ve seen all that many, but alas…). Taking pictures was forbidden in the exhibit, so I cribbed a couple of shots from the internet below. Ferrez apparently innovated a lot of new photographic techniques and was very much ahead of his time. But what most amazed me was seeing the early development of cities and construction of historic landmarks and railways throughout the country, as well as seeing gorgeous panoramic shots of Rio before Christ appeared on Corcovado.



Once I had managed to buy a suit and leave the pants with a tailor to be hemmed (all of which was quite a challenge given the aforementioned language issue) and do some preliminary sightseeing, I felt that it was time to check out the local nightlife. The first thing I noticed was that beverages in Brazil dress differently than those in Colombia. Instead of the typical paper napkin shawl sported by cocktails in Bogota and Medellin, here my drinks generally arrived wearing a stylish neckerchief.


(I hope you folks are buying stock in Smirnoff Ice, by the way – demand has increased ten-fold on account of my arrival in South America…)

I also noticed that some of the names for drinking establishments in São Paulo are downright ridiculous, such as:


São Paulo is also the first city in South America where I noticed that I didn’t really stand out all that much. It’s an incredibly ethnically diverse city, and folks there run the full gamut of skin tone, hair color, facial features, etc. There were suddenly plenty of fair-skinned, blue-eyed people running around so – for good or for ill – it was no longer “all eyes on Rob” everytime I stepped into a bar or a restaurant or whatnot. (Obviously, I kinda miss the attention…)

Wednesday, January 24, 2007

Guayaquil, Ecuador!

On Sunday, January 21, I left the Galapagos Islands to fly back to mainland Ecuador. I had originally planned to stay an extra couple of nights in the islands, but I decided 7 days in the hot equatorial sun was more than enough for my delicate Irish skin. When the boat dropped us off at the airport on the last day and I discovered there was no fee to change my return flight, I decided to hop on the next plane to Guayaquil. (There I am in the photo above, about to get on the plane.)

I spent three nights in Guayaquil, Ecuador's most populous city and its main seaport (it's located on the Guayas river which flows into the Pacific Ocean). To be honest with you, the city is hot, humid, dirty, noisy and not particularly attractive overall. But things are definitely getting better. An impressive riverfront promenade project, the Malecon 2000, was completed -- appropriately enough -- in 2000, and there's an amazing restoration/development project going on in the city's oldest neighborhood (Las Penas), which is going to be the next "Coconut Grove," as my new friend Ricardo informed me during a walking tour of the construction site.

Guayaquil also signalled the end of the "Reign of the Pocket Gays."

Given some of the emails I have received, I think this would be an appropriate time for a quick primer on pocket gays, to which I have referred in earlier posts. It seems not everyone is familiar with the term, and a little explanation might be in order.

A "pocket gay" is a rather small, portable gay man. The term is only ever used affectionately (at least by me and my peeps), and unlike in the heterosexual world, short men have a huge fan base among gay men. There's even a weekly party called "Runt" in NYC for short gay guys and their admirers -- it's held in a bar in the East Village with a very low ceiling. Seriously. And they give each patron a "Hello. My name is..." sticker with their height printed on it in lieu of their name. Fabulous!

I'm not sure whether the term originated on "Will & Grace" or not, but that's certainly when it exploded into the mainstream (meaning, that's when I started to use it).

JACK: Well, you see what you have there, don't you?
WILL: I see what I don't have, the other half of my date.
JACK: What you have... is a pocket gay.
WILL: A pocket gay?
KAREN AND GRACE [BOTH]: A pocket gay?
JACK: A pocket gay. The perfect travel-size homosexual. Just pop him in a man-purse, a briefcase, and you're good to go. In ten years they'll be making 'em all that way



Anywhoosie, getting back to my trip, partly because Colombianos tend to be rather short, and partly because Venezuelans and Ecuadorians tend not to be particularly tall, either, I had been encountering one pocket gay after another for weeks. So it was nice to mix things up a bit in Guayaquil and hang out with Cristobal, who I actually thought was taller than I am until I saw the photos. But regardless, he's definitely no pocket. And he's a native Guayaco, and really proud of his city, so it was great to have him give me a driving tour one night and a walking tour another. He is also a veterinarian, which I thought was totally hot. While he was pointing out the city's sights, I was imagining him at work in a white smock, heroically wrestling a ferocious pug down on the table to administer some life-saving injection or something. I found out later that he actually worked in-house for a big chicken company (like Perdue, but in Ecuador), trying to keep the chickens healthy until they are "put down." This sort of wrecked my fantasy, as being a "chicken vet" didn't carry quite the same sex appeal for me as "ferocious pug wrestler," but he was still adorable and very sweet and I had a lot of fun seeing the city with him. (Here's a photo of the two of us in front of the gardens on the Malecon 2000.)

Here is a photo of La Rotonda, also on the Malecon 2000, which commemorates the meeting of two Latin American liberators, Simon Bolívar and San Martin. (Bolivar, of course, was the famous Venezuelan who brought freedom from Spain to Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador and Venezeula, while San Martin was the Argentinean equivalent who freed Peru and Chile from the Spanish rule.) Frankly, it really looks to me like the two of them are exchanging wedding vows, which ironically, they could now do in Spain. It's sort of like coming full circle, but not really.

The other that happened while I was in Guayaquil was that I received notice from my top-choice MBA program that my application had been selected for interviews, which is the last hurdle in the admission process. Woohoo! I was very excited to hear this, but unfortunately it meant that I needed to hightail it over to Sao Paulo, Brazil for the aforementioned interviews, and skip my next destination (i.e., Uruguay) completely. The good news is that I was able to change my flight destination from Montevideo to Sao Paulo on Copa Airlines without any fee, and since the fare worked out to be less, I used the difference towards a flight on Gol Airlines for within Brazil. I found out about the interviews on Tuesday, spent the requisite two hours at the Copa office changing my flights the same day, and then flew to Sao Paulo, Brazil on Wednesday (Jan. 24).

Next up, Sao Paulo, Brazil!

Saturday, January 20, 2007

Galapagos Day 7: Rabida Island and Chinese Hat Island!


Our schedule for the day!


View of the Nemo I from Rabida Island


Me on Rabida Island (I look terrible in this photo, but it’s the only one I have of me on the island…)


More Sea Lion footage


Snorkeling off Rabida Island. Grumply little critter, ain't he?


View of reef while snorkeling


View from boat of Santiago Island


Rather long video of our submersion and initial descent near Sombrero Chino Island. Eric took this video using my camera, and you first see Peter, our guide, then Eric cuts quickly to me, then back to Peter, then there’s quite a long spell of chaos as we all submerge. Then you see me again – easily identifiable by my massive baldspot and red gloves. I decided to include the video, despite its length, because it sort of captures the experience pretty well.

Eric actually held on to my camera throughout this whole dive, so all of the following underwater photos and videos were taken by him. Gracias, Eric!


John (my Swedish cabinmate) with our new best friend. This sea lion put on an amazing show for us, stopping intermittently to return to the surface for area, then plunging right back down to 90 feet below the surface to do flips and rolls and check out our gear and look us right in the eyes through our masks. It was totally unbelieveable, and one of the most memorable moments of the Galapagos trip!


This video shows a little tidbit of the sea lion’s quite lengthy performance.

Galapagos Day 7: SCUBA Diving near Chinese Hat Island, continued!

Again, thanks to Eric for taking these photos on this dive!


Poisonous stone fish


Sea lion and me



Galapagos Striped Damselfish. One of these fish actually charged me and nipped my finger as I was passing along the reef. They’re really small, but very aggressive apparently, and I could feel the bite right through my glove.


Not sure what kind of fish this is, but the colors are amazing, no?


Sea lion in motion!


Damselfish, Coral, Pencil Urchin, etc.


Me swimming through a canyon about 90 feet below the surface

Galapagos Day 7: Chinese Hat Island!


Sea lion at rest


Me with sea lion pup


How cute are we here??? Why are my eyes closed? Drats! I’m actually squinting because the sun is so intense here…




I swear they’re so cute, I just can't stand it!


Galapagos Penguins are pretty darn cute, too!


Galapagos Penguins!

Friday, January 19, 2007

Galapagos Day 6: Isla Bartolomé!


Our schedule for the day!


A caldera on the edge of Bartolome Island. There was actually a sea lion frolicking inside the ring, but you can’t see him in this photo.


Me on Bartolome Island. You can see our catamaran, the Nemo I, anchored in the bay just to the left of my head.


Me in front of the summit of Bartolome Island. You can see the trails left by the lava flow just to the right of me.


A view from partway up the summit, looking out over Sullivan Bay. You can see the wooden boardwalk built to make the ascent easier and to protect the island from excessive impact from tourist traffic.


Continuing our ascent. You can see the little red summit marker in the upper-right hand corner of this photo.


Me nearly at the summit, with a view out towards Santiago (a.k.a. Isla San Salvador). To the right of me, you can also see Pinnacle Rock


Lava Lizard on Bartolome Island -- pretty cute, no? ;-)


Me from the summit. You can once again see the Nemo I, as well as Pinnacle Rock.

Galapagos Day 6: Snorkeling off Isla Bartolomé!


Galapagos Penguis


Whitetipped Reef Shark (you don't even need to go SCUBA diving to see sharks in the Galapagos!)


Whitetipped Reef Shark


Parrottfish


Sea lion



Sea Lion

Galapagos Day 6: SCUBA Diving at Cousins Rock!

It wasn’t even noon yet on Friday, and we had already hiked to the summit of Bartolome Island, snorkeled off the shore and now we were struggling to get into our wet suits, hoping to see some seahorses near Cousins Rock. (We didn’t actually succeed in this quest, unfortunately…)


Blackstripe Salemas. There were an obscene number of these fishes swimming in humongous schools all alongside the reef. By descending, we were actually tunneling through them, and if there were more than a few feet between divers, we would be creating separate tunnels and not really be able to see each other – it was wild!


This video gives you a little bit of a feel for what it was like swimming through these massive schools of Salemas…


In the 6 dives I had completed before coming to the Galapagos, I had never descended deeper than 55 feet below the surface of the water. Earlier this week, I hit 85 feet in depth and really felt the difference. Before diving at Cousins Rock, Peter had told us we were planning to go to 60 feet below. Imagine my shock when I looked down at my gauge and saw that I was more than 120 feet below the surface. It was quite cold, hard to see, difficult to breathe, and I am sure the suddenness and depth of the descent really affected my mental processes. Nitrogen narcosis, anyone? Plus, it was easy to lose my fellow divers, because every time they swam into the salemas, the fish closed in behind them and they were gone.


King Angelfish


I'm still working on identifying this fish...


Marbled Ray


Here’s a video of my approach to the Marbled Ray – the thing is really huge, about 6 feet across!


Underwater landscape




Eagle Ray


Sea Lion & Seal (sorry I can't edit videos on my computer!)

Galapagos Day 6: Return of the Dolphins!


Dolphin mid-jump


Dolphins off the front of our catamaran